Courrèges wished to be an artist, but his father directed him into engineering, at which he was successful. In 1948 he joined the staff of the couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga (Balenciaga, Cristóbal) and eventually advanced to the position of Balenciaga's first assistant.

In 1961 Courrèges opened his own fashion house, and by 1964 he had become established as one of the most original couturiers in Paris. His collection featured proportionate, well-cut pants, rigidly constructed clothes with smooth “trapeze,” or trapezoidal, lines, and short skirts, with white midcalf boots and large, dark glasses as accessories. White became his trademark.

Because his simple designs were widely copied, in 1965 he established strict control over the manufacture of his designs. In 1967 he showed both haute couture creations and ready-to-wear fashions for his boutique, Couture Future, with distribution controlled through licensed outlets. His designs remained dramatically simple, with a complete lack of nostalgia, and included such innovations as hip-hugger pants with halter tops, transparent tops, sequined jumpsuits, and vinyl-trimmed suits and coats.