The main island is by far the largest of the group and contains about nine-tenths of the population. It is surrounded by a coral reef that extends from Huon Island in the north to the Île des Pins in the south. Except for the central part of the west coast, which is bordered only by a fringing reef, it is a true barrier reef enclosing a large lagoon. There are numerous passages in the reef, usually at the mouths of rivers. New Caledonia's lagoons, with their diverse reefs and associated ecosystems, were designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2008.

Numerous streams descend from the central mountain chain to the lagoon; the streams often flood rapidly after rainfall and dry out in dry weather, especially on the west coast. The Diahot River, the longest river in the country, flows for about 60 miles (100 km) toward the northern tip of the island along the western escarpment of the Mount Panié range.

The Loyalty Islands consist of three main islands—Ouvéa, Lifou, and Maré (Maré Island)—and numerous small islands, the most important being Tiga. The Loyalty Islands account for more than one-tenth of New Caledonia's total land area and about one-tenth of the population. In contrast to the island of New Caledonia, these islands are raised coral plateaus, nowhere rising much higher than 430 feet (130 metres) or so. Surface water is lacking because of the porous nature of the calcareous rock formation.

The climate is subtropical with year-round precipitation. Rainstorms are especially common on the east coast, where at higher elevations more than 120 inches (3,000 mm) of rain may fall annually. On the west coast the precipitation is regularly less than 40 inches (1,000 mm). The period from December to March is particularly rainy because of equatorial depressions, including frequent tropical cyclones (tropical cyclone) (typhoons). Another period of heavy rainfall occurs in July and August; the driest months are September through November. Winds bearing northeast to southeast, including trade winds, predominate throughout the year and relieve temperatures in the hot season, which begins in November. Cyclonic winds are frequent late in the hot season.

The mean annual temperature at sea level ranges 71–75 °F (22–24 °C). In the southern part of the main island there are few days when the temperature rises above 86 °F (30 °C). The lowest temperature reached in Nouméa is about 55 °F (13 °C), but, farther north on the west coast, temperatures as low as 41 °F (5 °C) have been known to occur.

Except for several types of bat, which were present before the arrival of Europeans, mammals are absent from the native fauna. There are no frogs and no venomous land reptiles, although scorpions and centipedes are present. There are no endemic malaria-carrying mosquito species. The kagu, a flightless bird, is the most unusual of some 100 endemic bird species and is now rare. A wide range of marine life is present in the lagoon.

There is no official language, but French and Kanak have special legal recognition. Some 30 Melanesian languages are spoken, most Melanesians being proficient in more than one.

The Roman Catholic Church claims half of the population as adherents, including almost all of the Europeans, Uveans, and Vietnamese and half of the Melanesian and Tahitian minorities. Of the Protestant churches, the Free Evangelical Church (Église Libre) and the Evangelical Church in New Caledonia and the Loyalty Islands (Église Evangélique en Nouvelle-Calédonie et Îles Loyauté) have the largest number of adherents; their memberships are almost entirely Melanesian. There are also numerous other Christian groups and small numbers of Muslims.

For the first four decades of the 20th century, the Melanesian population was fairly stable, but by the mid-1980s it had doubled. Migration into and out of the country has been an important factor in the size of the non-Melanesian communities. The birth rate is higher among Melanesians and Uveans than among other groups, but infant mortality is also higher among Melanesians.

About three-fifths of the people live in the metropolitan area of Nouméa, which since 1965 has expanded to embrace the adjacent municipalities of Dumbéa, Mont-Dore, and Païta. Nouméa has numerous bars and restaurants, shops and supermarkets, a hospital, schools, a newspaper, and radio and television broadcasting facilities. About four-fifths of people of migrant origin, including Europeans, Polynesians, and Asians, live there as compared with one-fourth of the Melanesian population. About three-fourths of the Melanesians live outside Nouméa in small, widely dispersed villages with few modern facilities. They engage chiefly in subsistence agriculture based on the cultivation of yams, taros, sweet potatoes, and bananas. The population is almost entirely Melanesian in the Loyalty Islands, the Île des Pins, and the Bélep Islands and on the east coast and in the mountain ranges of the main island.

Although the gross domestic product (GDP) per capita is one of the highest in the South Pacific, the distribution of wealth between ethnic groups is unequal: Melanesian households earn on average only about one-fourth the income of European households. The distribution of land resources on the main island is also uneven. Although thousands of Melanesian families depend on agriculture, two-thirds of the land is in the hands of European families, only a few of whom are engaged in agriculture or cattle raising.

Europeans also dominate trades, businesses, and professions and hold most of the high-ranking administrative posts in the government. Official unemployment tends to be significantly higher among Melanesians than it is among Europeans, even without counting the considerable number of “hidden” unemployed who have returned to their villages.

Taxes in New Caledonia consist primarily of duties on imported goods, sales taxes, and taxes on business revenues. The vast majority of total tax receipts comes from the Nouméa metropolitan area.

Local agricultural products meet only part of New Caledonia's needs for meat, vegetables, and fruit. Yams are a staple crop. Commercial agriculture has not generally succeeded despite efforts to establish sugarcane, cotton, rice, coffee, and coconut-palm plantations. The production of coffee and copra (from coconuts) that began in the 19th century continued after World War II, chiefly because Melanesian subsistence farmers wished to diversify their crops and enter the cash economy; however, exports of those commodities are now negligible. A few reforestation projects, consisting mainly of plantings of Caribbean pine, have been established on Melanesian land on the Île des Pins and on mountains on the west coast of the main island. Cattle raising is important to the economy; pigs and horses are also raised but rarely for commercial purposes.

The weathering of serpentine rock provides New Caledonia with a large share of the world's known reserves of nickel (nickel processing) ore, as well as large deposits of chromium, cobalt, iron, and magnesium. The export of nickel ore, which has been mined since 1875, and of partly refined nickel from a large foundry on the outskirts of Nouméa, is subject to boom-and-bust cycles determined by the needs of the world steel industry and competition from other producers. Cobalt and iron ore deposits, as well as deposits of gypsum on the west coast and of phosphates on outlying islands, are no longer worked. Noncommercial deposits of coal are found on the west coast. The search for oil has not been successful. Hydroelectric power from Yaté and Néaoua provides nearly half of New Caledonia's energy needs; the remainder is produced from thermal generators burning imported fuel oil. More than three-fourths of the energy produced is used in nickel refining.

Exports, which consist largely of partly refined nickel and nickel ore, vary with the world market price of nickel. However, New Caledonia has a chronic balance-of-trade deficit. The European Union (EU) is the major trading partner, and much of the EU's trading activity with New Caledonia is with France. Other important trading partners include Japan, Singapore, Australia, South Korea, and Taiwan. France makes large grants to the country's budget, notably for health, education, and the maintenance of military and security forces. Governmental business services, trade, and finance make up a large proportion of the GDP and provide about two-thirds of employment. Efforts to diversify the economy beyond the commercial and administrative sectors have met with little success. There is, however, considerable potential for tourism, particularly from Australia, New Zealand, and Japan.

The main island of New Caledonia and the inhabited outer islands are ringed by roads. Virtually the entire coast of the island of New Caledonia may be traveled by road, and crossroads penetrate to the centre of the island. The port of Nouméa handles the majority of ship traffic. Regular service is available for cargo and passengers. The domestic airline, Air Calédonie, provides internal air service from Magenta Airport near Nouméa to the main and outer islands; Aircalin, an international partnership between Air Calédonie and several other national airlines, provides service to other countries in the South Pacific and to Japan.

Under the Nouméa Accord of 1998, New Caledonia has limited autonomy within the French legal system. It sends three representatives to the French parliament: two to the National Assembly and one to the Senate. Authority over defense, internal security, and various other matters is retained by the French government and is administered by its appointed representative, the high commissioner.

Health and educational facilities are of higher quality in Nouméa than elsewhere in New Caledonia. The more-isolated islanders have access to few schools and health centres. School is free and compulsory between the ages of 6 and 16, and the school system generally follows the syllabus of schools in France. Although elementary school attendance is nearly universal and secondary enrollment is high, relatively few non-Europeans gain higher qualifications. French is the only language of instruction in state-supported schools. The University of New Caledonia, founded in 1999, is located in Nouméa.

European cultural influence is evident in Nouméa, with its bars, restaurants, and cinemas, the Bernheim Library (1905; a large collection endowed by an early mine owner, Lucien Bernheim), museums, and bookshops. For the Europeans, sports tend to be closely related to the sea and include boating, fishing, windsurfing, and swimming or sunbathing at the city beaches of Vata Cove and the Bay of Citrons; tennis and cycling are also popular. Although football (soccer) in France is closely followed, large numbers of Melanesian men play the sport locally. Melanesian women have widely adopted a version of cricket, which was first introduced by early British missionaries in the Loyalty Islands. Melanesian football and cricket teams compete annually in countrywide competitions.

In many areas Melanesian custom remains strong, particularly in relation to clan and family ties and obligations. Almost without exception Melanesians, regardless of their education or urbanization, return to their villages to take part in elaborate ceremonies and gift exchanges on such occasions as births, marriages, and deaths. Traditions have been modified to include Christian ceremonies. In rural areas the traditional division of labour is retained. Women tend to carry out the daily agricultural round of planting, weeding, and harvesting, as well as the domestic tasks of cooking, cleaning, and child rearing. Men perform the heavier tasks of clearing the ground for new gardens. All take part in the annual yam planting and harvesting, which is still something of a ceremonial and social occasion and also sometimes draws urban workers back to their villages for a short period.

The use of local languages remains strong, although French has become the lingua franca through its prevalence in the educational system. With an increase in nationalist sentiment beginning in the late 20th century came a revival of interest among Melanesians in the traditional arts of sculpture, mat and basket weaving, singing, dancing, and wood carving.

State-owned radio and television stations relay programs to all parts of the country. In Nouméa there are also several privately owned radio stations. Satellite antennas have become increasingly common, bringing television programs and Internet access to even the remotest regions. There is one daily newspaper, Les Nouvelles Calédoniennes.

Melanesians settled the islands about 3000 BC and, except for rare Polynesian voyagers, probably were cut off from outside contact until the late 18th century AD. In 1774 the British navigator and explorer James Cook (Cook, James) landed at Balade, on the east coast of the mainland, and he named the island New Caledonia for his native Scotland. Cook was followed there by the French navigator Antoine de Bruni, chevalier d'Entrecasteaux, in 1793. Regular contact with Europeans began in 1841 when sandalwood traders from Australia introduced islanders to the use of iron. The arrival of a Protestant mission from the London Missionary Society in the Loyalty Islands in 1841 and a Marist mission, which was set up at Balade with the aid of the French navy in 1843, marked the beginning of the Protestant and Roman Catholic presence in the territory.

From the time of colonial (colonialism, Western) settlement until as late as 1917, Melanesian uprisings were common and were constantly feared by the settlers and authorities alike. The insurrection of 1856–59 near Nouméa and the uprising of 1878–79, which extended along the west coast from Bouloupari to Poya, seriously endangered French occupation. Grievances centred around the confiscation of Melanesian lands, the foraging of settlers' cattle on the Melanesians' produce gardens, and the head tax, which in 1899 was imposed by the colonial government on male Melanesians in order to oblige them to obtain employment with settlers and the government. The French suppressed each uprising (with the help of indigenous auxiliaries) by destroying villages and crops and demanding unconditional surrender, and insurgents were punished by deportation or execution and further confiscation of their lands.

By 1860 French authority had been established over the southern third of the mainland, and in the next decade the French established policies for disposing of indigenous land, regrouping tribes, and appointing a system of tribal chiefs to represent the administration. By the end of the 19th century, large areas of Melanesian land had been alienated and the inhabitants relegated to reserves. Forced labour, limitations on travel, and curfews were imposed from the early days of colonial rule and became the basis of a system of administrative law codified in 1887 as the indigénat (native regulations). The indigénat, as well as the head tax, remained in force until 1946.

Although the prime concern of the early colonial administration was the reception and control of about 22,000 French convicts sent to New Caledonia between 1864 and 1897, the French also attempted to attract free settlers and obtain a supply of cheap labour. In addition, between 1864 and 1939 some 60,000 indentured labourers were imported to construct public works and to work on plantations, ships, wharves, and mines and in commerce and domestic service. These included ni-Vanuatu (the indigenous population of Vanuatu) and Solomon Islanders (1865–1920), Vietnamese (1891–1939), Javanese (1896–1939), and Japanese (1892–1921). Only a small percentage of the survivors of these workers remained in the colony after their contracts expired, and, although few ex-convicts left the territory, not many established families. New Caledonia was also the unlikely home of some 4,000 déportés, political exiles of the 1871 uprising of the Paris Commune, but few of the survivors stayed after being granted amnesty. Most of the free white settlers were either former members of the French administration and armed forces, settlers from Australia and New Zealand, or former sugar planters from Réunion. The government encouraged two later waves of free settlers in the 1890s and 1920s to migrate to help establish coffee and cotton industries, respectively, but Europeans remained in the minority. After World War II the European population gradually increased by migration, but the main influx of white and Polynesian settlers occurred in the years leading up to and including the nickel boom of 1969–72. For the first time, the Melanesians became a minority in their own country, although they still were the largest single ethnic group.

From the beginning of French settlement, political debate among the white settlers revolved around the rights of residents to administer their own affairs without endangering the flow of French financial aid. Between 1885 and 1956 a locally elected general council advised the governor on territorial affairs and voted a local budget. By 1953 French citizenship had been granted to all New Caledonians, regardless of ethnic origin. Melanesians then formed a coalition with Europeans to bring to power the Caledonian Union (Union Calédonienne) party on a ticket of full self-government in local affairs. Progress toward self-government was made in 1957 when a Territorial Assembly was created with powers to elect an executive under the presidency of a high commissioner. In the 1970s the Caledonian Union became an increasingly Melanesian party as Europeans deserted it, and it turned to supporting the cause of independence. In 1979 the Caledonian Union formed the Independence Front in coalition with several minority Melanesian parties. The French government granted complete self-government in territorial affairs under the Lemoine Statute of 1984, but the Independence Front rejected the statute and reconstituted itself as the Kanak Socialist National Liberation Front (Front de Libération Nationale Kanake et Socialiste; FLNKS). The FLNKS boycotted the elections in that year and, in an uprising, temporarily captured most of the territory outside Nouméa.

The following decades were characterized by political struggles between the FLNKS and a settler-dominated party, the Rally for Caledonia in the Republic (Rassemblement pour la Calédonie dans la République; RPCR), which favoured continued ties with France. In 1988 the French government, the RPCR, and the FLNKS negotiated the Matignon Accords, which restructured political and advisory bodies and granted wide-reaching autonomy. The Nouméa Accord was formally signed in May 1998, approved by referendum in November, and passed by both houses of the French National Assembly in March 1999. Among its provisions were a change of status from overseas territory to overseas country and the holding of a referendum on independence in the early 21st century.

largest island of the French overseas country of New Caledonia, in the southwestern Pacific Ocean 750 miles (1,200 km) east of Australia. Also known as Grande Terre (Mainland), it is approximately 250 miles (400 km) long and 25 miles (40 km) wide. From its coast, encircled by one of the world's longest barrier reefs (second only to Australia's Great Barrier Reef), the island rises to a double chain of central mountains, the highest peak of which is Mount Panié, with an elevation of 5,341 feet (1,628 metres). The climate is basically subtropical, with mean monthly temperatures ranging from about 63 °F (17 °C) to 90 °F (32 °C). Precipitation is highest from December to March; on the east coast, which is subject to the trade winds, it reaches about 120 inches (3,000 mm) annually, while the west coast receives less than 40 inches (1,000 mm). Forests grow along the east coast and in some valleys, and the west coast has savannas. The niaouli, or cajeput tree, and more than 10 species of the genus Araucaria (pinelike coniferous trees) are characteristic. Natural fauna is sparse, except for fishes and birds.

The island is believed to have been settled by Melanesians from Southeast Asia by about 3000 BC. The first European to visit the island (1774) was Capt. James Cook (Cook, James), who gave it the Roman name for Scotland, Caledonia. Bruni d'Entrecasteaux, a Frenchman, visited the island in 1793. A French Roman Catholic mission was established in 1840, and the island was annexed by France in 1853. It served as a penal colony from 1864 to 1897, during which time the indigenous people attempted several revolts. When the French overseas territory was formed in 1946, the island became part of it.

The capital, as well as the chief town and port, is Nouméa, on the southwest coast. The island has significant ore deposits (nickel, iron, chrome, cobalt, manganese) and exports coffee and copra. Industries include the processing of nickel ore, the leading export; meatpacking, supplied by the large herds of cattle grazing on the southwestern slopes; and the milling of the local kauri pine for timber. Airlines make domestic connections and link the island to Australia, New Zealand, and other points in the Pacific; ferry service also connects Nouméa with several of the other islands of the territory. There is an extensive road network.

Although nearly half of the population is Melanesian, there are many Europeans and people of European descent. The island also has small communities of Wallis Islanders, ni-Vanuatu (indigenous people of Vanuatu), Indonesians, and Vietnamese, all of whom were originally brought in as labourers. Area 6,321 square miles (16,372 square km). Pop. (2004) 205,939.